Sunday, December 21, 2008

The trek to Anapurna Base Camp

Upon further research, I discovered that the original trek I wanted to do wouldn't be possible in under three weeks, and the other one wasn't worth it unless you were interested in climbing stairs for 9 days and 2 inevitable knee replacements. So given my firm belief that I suffer from Osgood Schlatters and a pair of mismatched legs I decided on another trek that wouldn't only take me straight up one side of a mountain, but rather, up and down several and finally up to the Anapurna Base Camp, which lies at 4100 meters and serves as the launching point for 3 different summit climbs reaching well above 8000 meters. In the end, it turned out to be more climbing meter-for-meter in altitude but was worth it for the eye candy.

If you look at the above map in the bottom right-hand corner you'll see Pokhara, where I started and ended my trek, also one largest cities in Nepal 8 hours east of Kathmandu. From there I took a bus to Phedi, where I was greeted with a 500 meter initial climb up a flight of boulders with only myself and the Beast (see photo of backpack below). A typical day of trekking consisted of waking around 7am, breakfasting a bowl of warm porridge, an apple, ginger tea and setting out on the trails no later than 8am. I usually hiked 8 hours a day, stopping several times along the way for lunch, more water and the occasional avoidance of stampeding pack mules.

The villages along the way were heavily influenced by tourism, offering a host of tea house-style accommodations, lukewarm showers and mostly identical menus of overpriced, Nepali versions on Western dishes. Aside from the obvious marks of our "neo-imperialism" the tribal people, as far as social formation goes, largely still adhere to tradition. Villages consisting of 40 people or less are separated from the one just a few meters down the mountain by caste identification and may even differ in dialect. Complex networks of trade and bartering allow products that can only be grown at certain altitudes to be dispersed around the region. And aside from the presence of Western trekkers, the Anapurna region is under strict conservationist protection from further development.


It took me approximately four whole days of trekking to reach the base camp at 4100 meters. While rounding peaks, viewing waterfalls and discovering new flora and fauna proved parts of the journey exhilarating, other parts- for instance staring across a valley to another peak, realizing that the only way across is straight down and straight up- were downright soul destroying. Many fellow trekkers hired a porter and a guide to carry their bags and lead them to the top. In continuity with the months I had behind me, I did without both, and on a few occasions, spared a few pennies by sleeping in the dining hall with the Sherpas. (Aren't I hardcore?) Actually, aside from some alleviated back pain, most of the available "luxuries" were unnecessary and didn't afford the full freedom to explore and interact the way I was able to. On the way up I ran into yet another childhood friend from Longwood, Lyndsey Curry. For a town of only a couple thousand, we sure are representin' in Asia. We talked and caught up on the last 15 years, acknowledged the surrealness of the moment and continued our separate ways. 'Shout out' Lyndsey. Things went beautifully until around 3500 meters. I'm usually the last person the get motion/sea/ or exotic food sickness, but on the final day I was suffering from AMS. Though none of my symptoms were extreme, they still deterred me from sleeping the night before reaching the base camp and spending too long at the top the next day.
An actual avalanche in process. No worries, my camera was fully zoomed for this shot.
Reaching the top was very rewarding and having to head back the same way rather anticlimactic, but it was awesome to be at yet another destination that can't be reached without days of grueling exertion or the duplicity of modern transportation.

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